Dambulla and the ancient cities

After a rotten day, Duncan is better and so we set off for the final bit of our current grand tour. Before leaving Kandy we go to the ancient Buddhist Tooth Temple which is fantastic. Reputed to hold the Buddhas Tooth which underwent a fascinating journey due to warring kings, gods, the British (of course!) it finally ended up safe-and-sound in Kandy. Security is high at the complex as the Tigers set off a bomb there 10 year's ago, but the temple itself is astonishingly tranquil. What I find unique is the number of Sri Lankans there (but then it's not a tourist site but a site of worship and 70% of Sri Lankans are Buddhist). This will be replicated at a number of sites we visit. Am in awe of the magnitude of this religion - manages to strike a chord in a way that much "architecturally grander" western worship sites don't.

Prior to our departure we pop into the local store to stock up on water for the journey. Crossing the road back to the car I jaywalk and manage to fall flat on my face (literally) in the middle of the main road. Luckily the traffic stops - mainly because they've never seen a white woman spreadeagled and bleeding before!!! Dignity extremely dented, as are my hands and knees and I'm very aware of the fact that I narrowly avoided becoming a 'tuk tuk' sandwich - I limp to the car with my heart beating out of my chest. After a quick wipe with iodine I settle back for the drive as the adrenalin begins to clear - who needs drugs, just fall over more often.

Along the way we stop off at spice farm and go on probably our best "tour" learning all about cinnamon, coffee, vanilla, sandalwood, aloe vera etc etc The finale is a 20 min Ayurvedic massage - absolute bliss. Just what a poor damaged girl needed. The masseur even very kindly squeezed fresh aloe vera on my knees and hands - I did feel much better afterwards. Over 75% of Sri Lankans' use Ayurvedic medicine as their first call. Based on eating healthily and using natural products and massage for the body's ailments as opposed to rushing to the doctor for a pill. Doctor's in Ayurvedic medicine study for 9 years for accreditation. I'm certainly convinced that it's a wonderful companion for conventional medicine.

After a hot and dusty but uneventful drive we arrive in Dambulla, which is like a 'transit town' - it's close to the ancient cities and is used as a stop by lots of western tourists. We billet at the Amaya Lake Hotel, www.amayaresorts.com which was fabulous - at last a hotel that lives up to it's price tag! What a relief. Really peaceful, next to a lake, loads of wildlife, fabulous swimming pool, nice guests, great staff, good food. We've got 2 nights here and I'm looking forward to it.

That afternoon we drive half an hour to Sigiriya. What can I say? This is a winter palace built around and on top of a 1,000 metre rock in about 6AD. It's astonishing on a number of levels - the construction, the use of natural form i.e. the boulder garden, the climb (how on earth did they do it, never mind construct a palace up there?). It's mindblowing. I am again reminded of my fear of heights as we climb - tell me what modern rocket scientist rebuilds access where at any given stage you can see through the stairs down to the gradually receding ground level below? What is that? Can't engineers build proper stairs anymore?

Get to the top without having a hissy fit or a heart attack, but half way up notify Dunc that he's going to have to help me down, there's no way i'm going to make it on my own. From the face of several other females up there I'm reassured that I'm not the only one! Admire the vista as well as the engineering - can see for miles. Climb down with one hand gripping Duncan's shoulder for dear life and the other gripping the hand rail - did you know that you can walk down circa 200 stairs at 1,000 metres above fresh air with your eyes closed (if you have to?). Well it is possible, but only with a willing sherpa - thanks Dunc.

Very hot post climb so after viewing a wild giant squirrel (in the car park!) we head back to the hotel for a swim. Everyone looking at me strangely and begin to think my swimsuit's got a hole in it - then remember my knees - one is already purple and yellow and the other has dried blood scrapes everywhere. Elle Mcpherson needn't be too worried.

Next day we head to Polonoruhwa (I think I've spelt this incorrectly) another ancient city, this time with a very good museum. It is stinking hot, hot, hot (though apparently it gets hotter in the middle of the year as we are in the northern hemisphere (just)). I have to resort to the hankerchief soaked in water draped over my neck. Doesn't help that I've taken the "killer" antimalaria tablets this morning - they are repulsive. Anyway, not enough to put me off, and we view fabulous reclining buddha's and temples galore.

Prior to departing Dambulla the next day we head to the Dambulla Caves which are full of the most ornate frescoes and statues of Buddha from circa 10AD and are situated as the name suggests in caves up a big rock. Foreign tourists (pleasingly) are outnumbered by Sri Lankans by about 3/1 ratio. Buddhism is actively and openly practised and three times a day all these sites close for prayers and offerings. The monkeys have also worked out that where there are religious offerings there is food so there is a huge swathe of monkeys which brings delight to both locals and tourists alike as there are several babies. They live up to their cheeky moniker!

Now back to Colombo, along the "good" road (it is) ....