Fashion vs Modesty

In Sri Lanka, the number one fashion accessory is not Gucci handbags, or Prada shoes but a much more available item - plain old fashioned modesty. Given Western social norms which seem to work on the principle of 'if you've got it, flaunt it', modesty is an accessory which seems outdated, and even though readily accessible we are hard pressed to know where to 'purchase', even if we want to.

Prior to departing for Sri Lanka I put a fair amount of thought into my wardrobe trying to take Sri Lankan social norms (as guided by Lonely Planet) into consideration. Out were several 'normal' items of clothing (normal for the Northern Beaches of Sydney that is!) such as mini-skirts, skimpy dresses and non-existent t-shirts. In were some rather dowdy long-sleeved light-weight tops, long trousers, etc etc. I even went to the extent of purchasing a dress from an upmarket travel shop which was so demure I felt that sainthood would be immediately impending.

Within a week of hitting Colombo, and still 'green' about social customs, I went for an exploration (shopping) in my oh, so demure dress. Now before going further I should describe this dress. It is black, made from 'travel' material, (which means it can be washed and will dry in abou 10 nanoseconds), is crossover so has a v-neck, sleeveless, and comes to mid-calf. St. Alicia, here we come (or so I thought). So feeling very 'virginal' and armed only with my umbrella (for the sun - I'm a local now), out I went.

I realised very quickly, that my Western notion of modesty was way off the mark. After being verbally accosted (a fairly reptilian hising sound) for the 2nd time in 200 yards, my focus turned to the v-neck of the dress which I realised revealed more than a little. When I strode down the street, the dress folds separated and onlookers received what can best be described as an eyeful. And don't even get me started about the effect that bare arms have on seemingly rational males.
Looking around, I now truly saw the women around me for the first time. What had previously presented to me as an endless apparition of beautiful creatures in the most beautiful and varid concoctions of saris, western attire, or shalwars (pants with a long top and scarf) I now realised are all highly coloured, decorated variations on a theme - fashionable modesty. Very few of these outfits expose 'body parts', and 90% of Sri Lankan women (except those socialising in Western hotels), are fully covered by their attire. Even those in western clothing wear skirts that usually cover them to their ankles. The only notable display of flesh is such a common occurence that no-one bats an eyelid despite a fair amount of midriff being exposed by sari's.

So whilst I had been dazzled by the sparkles (everywhere) and the colour and the sheer variety of sari's and shalwars, I had failed to notice the common theme of modesty. But now that I have, it has been fairly easy to adapt my wardrobe accordingly, as the shops are full of beautiful and cheap outfits. And a real bonus is that Sri Lankan women really take kindly to you making the effort to conform to their dress standards. I have since purchased two shalwars, and when I wear them, or even western versions (a long top and trousers, minus the scarves) they are always very complimentary. I haven't gone the 'full monty' and bought a sari yet, but I'm contemplating it.

But you can't please all of the people all of the time - a friend of mine and I have had a myriad of conversations (some heated) about the topic! But what she sees as my betrayal (giving in, or conforming), I explain to her is my choice (that oh, so western notion and perogative). Because to me it is about 'conforming', but 'respect'. Respect for local norms, local culture, local customs. And let's face it, as well as 'fitting in' it's probably not a bad thing for all concerned - I'm not getting any younger! Modesty prevails.

Sri Lankan Stomach

Well I guess it was only a matter of time, and both DY and I have succumbed to 'Bali Belly' or 'Sri Lankan stomach' in the last 48 hours. I won't bore you with the details but poor DY had a rough day at work running in and out of meetings and I spent most of last night in the bathroom - just what you need before 2 job interviews today!

Duncan is deeply suspicious of the WOMANTIC meal we shared downstairs at Lagoon restaurant on Valentine's Day. The restaurant overlooks the fish and terrapin pond and then the pool and is really lovely on a balmy night, but I'm not blaming them as we ate completely different meals, plus my onset was 24 hours later than Duncan's. But as my family constantly remind me, I'm no doctor, so who knows? It was a lovely night set off by fairy lights in the trees, french wine, great food (or so we thought at the time), great company, terrapins going for a stroll in front of us, but the highlight it must be said was looking out over the 2 floating pontoons that had been erected over the pool for those who had won the 'Night of Romance' draw.

Just imagine, you and your loved one, dining on a sumptous feast whilst sitting on a floating pontoon strewn with flowers and surrounded by well wishers (gawkers). It did look very special, but you wouldn't have got me out there for all the tea in Sri Lanka - I watched a couple of rocket scientists (not) putting it up during the day - lots of electric wiring and some very dodgy support mechanisms. We did debate hanging around after our dinner to see if the lucky couples fell in the drink and were electrocuted, but decided that wasn't very charitable.

Did I tell you Kool and the Gang were staying in our hotel, and we saw them as they were leaving to play in the stadium here? I LOVE Kool and the Gang, but have to admit to thinking they were one of those rip-off bands! Don't think I'll be winning any loyalty awards from the fan club ....

Duncan's Birthday

So Friday 10th was Duncan's 37th birthday and to all you slackers out there that forgot to send him a birthday message, you know who you are! I must say, having just arrived in a new country it was pretty quiet (do you feel even worse now?).

I ordered him a birthday cake from the Hilton, which was an exercise in itself - I have come to realise that there is no such thing as a 'simple' cake in SL. The preference here is for an exorbitant cream or butter-cream to cake ratio i.e. 50/50! Which wouldn't appeal overly to DY, so after much to-ing and fro-ing I managed to persuade the pastry chef that a simple carrot cake, no icing and NO chocolate chips (can you imagine?) was the go. Anyway, when I picked it up, it not only had icing, but a birthday message in chocolate - what can you do?

I was planning that if nothing else Dunc would be able to share it with his new work colleagues, but I didn't realise that the UN was having a meeting (all divisions) so that foiled plan a). After a couple of slices we reverted to plan b) which has had unexpectedly positive spin off's. We gave it to the concierge of our building to be shared amongst their staff and the security guards. Well that's done it - we are now the official No.1 couple in the block! Nothing is too much trouble - the plants we've been asking about arrive this week, our broken corkscrew was replaced in an hour - all good stuff. A little birthday cake goes a long way it seems.

So we took ourselves off to dinner at the Gallery Cafe and were joined by Nina, a fairly new arrival herself and really sweet girl. She is half Finnish and half Swiss and is working for WHO whilst living with her partner Jon (an Aussie) who works for UNEP. It was fun if fairly quiet, with everyone tucked up by 11.30.

Just as well we saved the excitement - this weekend was the Colombo Perahera, which conveniently occurs literally out the back of our complex. This is a religious/cultural affair timed with the full moon (have I told you that there's a holiday called a poya day every month for full moon?) and includes elephants dressed up like great sparkly cakes, Kandyan dancers showing off their physical prowess (Kandy is the second largest town in SL), and drums, lots of them. It was akin to a full moon rave without the drugs and Pommie backpackers misbehaving!

Fair and Lovely

I have realised that I am currently in the middle of a social experiment/ research project, with myself as subject matter and researcher. As I am performing both roles I cannot claim to be impartial so my findings will have to be taken with a healthy dose of salt and certainly will not be publishable.

The topic is: Integration and Alienation - A study of skin colour and other impediments to societal integration. Thoughts? Bit wordy? I agree, but am happy to take suggestions from the floor.

Since the beginning of our little adventure, I have been feeling somewhat "distinct" from those around me. This has been compounded by the different cultural norms here associated with being female (more later) and the necessary adjustments I have had to undertake. But I have also come to realise that it's far more than that.

For the first time in my life, I am experiencing what it is like to be a "minority", based purely on my skin colour. Nothing to do with me, who I am, what I say or think - only the colour of my skin. And it feels strange - as if somehow, I'm no longer "me". Instead of being part of "the norm", I now represent the "abnorm" (no comments please!), and it is very unsettling.

So in the interest of science, I have decided to "put myself out there". No hidin gin the almost exclusively Western enclaves of 5* hotels, embassy do's and "accepted" watering holes, no sir. I'm in the markets bartering for veggies; on the streets feeding stray dogs; walking everwhere I possibly can, and the response is surprising. Wherever I go, people stare at me. Small children come and stand next to me, transfixed by my appearance but too scared to touch. And it doesn't stop with looking different. Because of the distinction of my skin colour, an assumption is made about other things i.e. my wealth. Whenever I try to purchase something, there is a momentary hesitation as the shop assistants try to work out what price to charge me. Should they double, or triple it? Tuk-tuk drivers quote ridiculous prices to you, and when you tell them that you live here, they respond with "you can afford it, you rich, me poor", which of course by comparison is true.

It doesn't always work against you, either, but "affirmative discrimination" doesn't make me feel any better! Yesterday a Sri Lankan doorman held back his countrymen to let me through a door first, even though the Sri Lankans were there before me. I tried to let them go through first and they wouldn't .

Coming from the West, a big shock was to find that this situation is also sanctioned by the State. Hotels and even restaurants, give one rate for locals and one for "foreigners". Foreigners pay to enter national monuments, locals don't. There are casinos in Colombo that advertise on their front wall, "Foreigners Only"! (I nearly fell over when I saw that sign). State run bus and train travel is not immune either.

Many nations around the world hold light or white skin up as a representation of "beauty", even in countries where the citizens are not white. In China, Japan, Thailand and Vietnam for instance "light" skin denotes not only beauty, but a certain social status. If you have "light" skin, you are less likely to be a field, or "low" worker. It is no different on the Indian subcontinent. But this obsession has a darker side (pardon the pun). On one of the many huge billboards used here to advertise products I recently saw a poster for: Fair and Lovely, a "multivitamin that will noticeably lighten your skin in just one month". Advertised by the Bollywood phenomenon, Aishwarya Rai (famously described by Julia Roberts as "the most beautiful woman in the world") who is notable for both her acting prowess and her fair skin and light eyes.

Somehow I don't think I'll bother writing this "research" up, but I'll let you know if and when the "lab rat" sensation wears off ....

Cooking with Mrs Mallika Joseph

Ok, so being ladies of 'leisure' but not layabouts, Madeleine, Angela and I took ourselves off to Mrs Mallika Josephs' yesterday for a crash course in Sri Lankan cooking. Mrs Mallika Joseph (no abbreviation permitted) is a local celebrity who has been running the Mallika School of Home Science for some 37 years (www.mallikajoseph.com) . At this establishment, it is possible for young ladies of a certain inclination to learn such essential skills for their continuing education and enjoyment as: mirror carving; crystal ornaments; dress making - easy method; social etiquette and grooming; and of course, cold porcelain moulding. Sri Lankan cooking is not actually one of the usual courses offered, however as Mrs Mallika Joseph is also one of Sri Lanka's most renowned cookery writers, we were recommended to her and she kindly agreed to give us a 3 hour tutorial on Sri Lankan cuisine.

The location (her home) is a huge two storey house in Colombo 9 and on entering down the side gate we were greeted by Mallika and her 6 aides. Mallika herself is all of 5", a self-confident matriarch with a huge smile, no-nonsense style and Nana Maskouri glasses. Her aides, range from 16 yrs to circa 25 (her sous chef) and have various designated tasks (remember my earlier comments about rigid job structures) from which they digress under fear of death! We take a seat in what looks like her garage (but it might not be), between the main house and the kitchen. (Sri Lankan houses are set up differently from ours with the cooking facilities usually being outside, or removed from the main house to prevent cooking smells). In this garage, is a table which has been set up with a gas burner and various plates holding chopped vegetables, chillis, onions, spices etc - it looks promising. On one side of the table are Mallika and her aides, on the other Madeleine, Angela and I. The moment of initial awkwardness is broken by a 5 year old with squeaky flip flops who proceeds to come in and stare at us whilst squeaking her shoes constantly. This breaks the ice and mobilises Mallika into action - instigating the 5 year old's removal - the cooking begins!

The sous chef (whose name I don't learn) is terrified that she's going to poison us with chilli, so with every dish she and Mallika confer about the amount of chilli involved, and whether to add it or not. Just to be sure they check with us at each stage, and look sceptical when we always respond to put it in. Meanwhile the aides flutter in the background, removing dirty dishes, providing clean ones, chopping vegetables, whenever instructed and sometimes when not, and then copping it from Mallika if they've removed the wrong thing!

There is a constant refrain of "come sweetie" from Mallika as she tries to keep the show on the road. We learn about the strength of coconut milk (1st milk, 2nd milk, 3rd milk); roti; sambols; how Sri Lankan meals are made-up (at least 5 dishes, all of which are called curries, and at least one of which must have gravy i.e. a sauce); the difference between white and brown curries (brown has chilli, white doesn't). All good until when we are making the white curry we get to the stage where chilli is added. When I ask about this, Mallika laughs and says that, it only has green chilli in it, that's why we say there's no chilli. By now we're beginning to realise that no dish in Sri Lankan cuisine is without chilli.

Throughout the demonstration, I have to confess we learn nearly as much from Mallika's running commentary as we do from the cooking demo! Mallika is keen to share and asks all sorts of questions, starting around cooking, but soon digressing onto what I suspect are her favourite topics. We open with, You are not allowed to cook like this, no? Outside? You cook inside. (face wrinkle) and it smells, no?. Without waiting for a response she adds: Australian houses they smell so bad. I've been there. Now, my daughter, she can come here - I no want to go there again, better here. Whilst we're digesting this she moves on: Do you have 'girls' in your houses? When we respond 'no' she asks us Why not? It makes life so easy, I have 6 girls, they do all my cooking and washing, and cleaning and in return I train them, and she waves her hand expansively around the surroundings, before adding, I have to pay them you know. We're trying to mobilise our thoughts on why we don't have 'girls', but before we get there, she laughs as she recalls her offer to send a 'girl' to her daughter in Melbourne. Apparently her son-in-law (Sri Lankan) called her and, he told me I would get him into maximum trouble, it's not like that here, and she laughs and shrugs as she adds (somewhat triumphantly), but they still call me when they want recipes. Moving swiftly on, she tells us proudly about her youngest daughter who is a ballerina, but loves jazz and tap too, and her son, a computer programmer who is studying in London. But he has no girl, so I have to choose him a girl (eyeroll), he says he doesn't have time. You don't do this, no? I think it is best, parents know best, we choose. We all nod politely (my advice, never argue with a woman over 50 and under 5" - you'll lose every time).

As if there wasn't enough activity, throughout the session there is a constant stream of visitors enquiring about Wedding Cakes, another sideline in which Mallika is an expert. We are treated to a piece of her famous cake (tastes like the most beautiful christmas cake I've ever eaten - sorry mater!), which she ships around the world. One couple enquire about the costs, dimensions etc of a 600 slice cake. When we ask how could anyone know 600 people, she responds that is nothing, I recently sent 1,500 slices to London for a wedding!! I don't think she's boasting either!

At the end of the demo we tuck into the food, which is undoubtedly the best Sri Lankan we've ever eaten. After a quick tour of the house to view the crystals, paperwork, mirror carving etc we depart, the latest proud graduates of the Mallika School of Home Science.

Ash Plantain Sambol (side-dish size):
2x Ash Plantain (green bananas); 1 tspn salt; 1 tspn mustard seeds; 1 tspn cumin seeds; 10 curry leaves; 1/2 onion - chopped finely; 1 green chilli -chopped; 1/2 tspn saffron; 2 tbspns thick coconut milk; vegetable oil for deep frying

Chop the Ash plantain into bite sized pieces, wash then deep fry for 3 mins until soft and drain on paper towel. Add the mustard seeds, curry leaves and cumin to a spoonful of oil. Cook for 30 seconds then add the chillies, onions and 1/2 tspn of saffron. Cook for 2 mins, add the fried plantains. Meanwhile add the salt to the coconut mil, stir and add to the frying mix. Cook on high heat for 30 seconds and remove. Stir and serve.

White curry:
Take any vegetable or meat of choice

3 tbspns of sweet cumin (ground in mortar and pestle); 1 tspn mustard seeds; 2 tbspns vegetable oil; 1 tspn dill seeds; 1/2 tspn saffron; 1/2 onion chopped; 10 curry leaves; 4 green beans sliced (our vegetable); 1 tspn green chillies - chopped; 1/2 tspn salt; 1/2 cup thick coconut milk

Heat oil and add in turn: mustard seeds, dill and saffron. Cook for 30 seconds and add the onion, curry leaves and beans with the green chillies - cook for 3 mins over medium heat. Add the salt to the coconut milk and then add to the pan - turn heat to high. Cook for further 30 seconds then turn the heat off and add 1 tspn of the sweet cumin. Stir and serve.

The religion that is Cricket

Alright, I'll 'fess up. I am not and never will be a cricket nut, much to the eternal disappointment (shame?) of both my father and brother. To tell the truth it bores me rigid. I would rather have my toe-nails pulled out slowly with hot pliers than watch a game - with one exception - when the West Indies are playing. And this of course has nothing to do with the game, but the spectators. When there are West Indian spectators at a game it is a bit like when the Brazilians are supporting one of their national teams. What was dull and conformist suddenly becomes fun - old grandpas waving their umbrellas in the air, drums beating, women singing - their joie de vivre is catching and you can't help but be enthused. So for me, it's all about the crowd.

Now I knew before I came here that the SL's LOVE cricket. My brother (who lives in Germany) is Captain of a cricket team. From memory, he's got one other German on his team, 2 Indians and the rest are Sri Lankans. So I knew this was BIG. But a bit like the driving I had no idea how much that would impact on daily interactions. In any given conversation with a Sri Lankan, it is only a matter of time before you are asked: "Where are you from?", and with strangers that is normally the first question. So when you answer, Australia, well you can imagine the reaction. Both Shane Warne and Ricky Ponting seem to be national heroes of SL, and indeed many Sri Lankans regard Shane Warne as a personal friend because of the great work he has done in re-establishing the famous cricket ground at Galle which was damaged by the tsunami.

When we first arrived, we would often see groups of men congregated around shop windows. Being a bit nosy myself (inquisitive I like to think) I had to go and look at what they were looking at - of course it was a TV shop and was showing the game. A large section of society don't have tv's here, so when there's a game on you'll find any electrical shop is surrounded - don't know if they sell anything though!

Tim (Duncan's Lend lease colleague) asked him whether he liked cricket on our first night. And when DY replied "negative", Tim's response was to laugh and say that that would have to change. And it's true. It comes up in every conversation, it is lived and breathed, and it is impossible to do business in this country without first covering the etiquette of cricket.

Percentage of Sri Lankans who are Buddhist - 70; percentage of Sri Lankans who follow cricket - 100! So if anyone can tell me who else is in the Aussie cricket team, or the names of any of the SL batsmen I'll be eternally grateful .....

Elephants - Highs and Lows

On Saturday (Independence Day) we decided to get away from the hullabaloo of Colombo and head for the hills, with Madeleine and her sister Angela and go to the Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage, about 2.5 hours away.

We didn't get off to a great start as all the streets were blocked for the Independence Day processions so after a series of frantic telephone calls with our driver for the day, Patrick we managed to rendezvous. The drive out of Colombo was bliss as everyone was enjoying the national holiday and having a lazy start to the day.

Pinnewala was founded about 25 years ago and started with 7 baby Indian elephants - all orphans. The endangered Indian elephant roams wild here (there are huge swathes of the country designated as nature reserves), but as is always the way man is steadily encroaching on their habitat with illegal logging and farming so the pressure is on. Sometimes these elephants are orphaned as they would be in the wild due to accidents or conflicts within their own herd, or shortages of food, sickness etc but in more recent times (the last 20 years) the reasons are more normally attributable to man-made (inflicted) disasters, such as land mines.

The herd, through breeding as well as additional orphans is now a massive 52 elephants, with one bull, several matriarchs (who boss everyone else around), and much to my delight about 8 "babies". This is an astonishing achievement as any zoo in the West will testify to - there are numerous obstacles to the propagation of elephants, not least the 22 month gestation period. It speaks volumes about the difference between this sort of programme which is based on protection in the elephants' natural habitat and captive breeding.

Unfortunately due to the length of the drive we missed bottle feeding time (can you imagine?), but instead were treated to the elephant bathing time in the river. The orphanage is located a gentle 400m stroll from a large river and twice a day, everyone saunters down for a paddle followed closely by about 500 gawping humans.

It really is hard to describe how wonderful these creatures are, how graceful (despite their size), how communicative (apparently they utilise a sonar communication system not dissimilar to dolphins and can keep in touch with each other over distances of several kilometres), how expressive their trunk movements are etc. And watching them en masse is a hoot! You have the jokers blowing water all over everyone else; the two babies circa 12 months (and although they look tiny by comparison to their mothers, they probably weigh in at about 150kg), wrestling with each other at length - this consists of manhandling each other into the deeper pools of water and then the victor sitting on top of the other for as long as possible - no one is in danger of drowning as they use their trunks like snorkels!; the young adults wrestling with their trunks; the greedy guts - standing as close to the awed crowds as their mahouts (handlers) will let them and gracefully extending their trunks step by step up the rocks, until surprise surprise someone passes down a piece of fruit or a cashew nut; and then the ever patient mothers, some with very small baby's (70kgs) sheltering under their legs and others, like the mum of the aforementioned 1 year olds obviously getting a little bit testy with all the fooling around!

In order to prevent a stampede, about 5 of the larger elephants have one foot attached on a large chain to a rock in different segments of the river, just so that the mahouts can control them if something scares them. The mahouts take great pleasure in washing them (which the elephants love) and also in showing them off to the tourists (for a small fee of course - c'mon it wouldn't be SL without a fee!). So yes of course I got sucked in and had to have an "up-close experience". For the grand price of 50 rps (about $2) I got to pat a baby. Their skin is really tough and rough so I gave him a bit of a scratch uncertain whether he'd be able to feel it. No problems there as he started leaning into me for more - very cute. And their trunks are incredibly tactile. It is quite astonishing watching and adult weighing 400kgs take a single cashew delicately out of your hand and just as delicately hand it down to their baby ....

As you can tell I was impressed! It was a great day and an honour to be able to get so close to these astonishing creatures.

Postscript: Opened the paper today - page 2 there is a photo of a farmer in front of the pregnant elephant he has shot and killed whilst protecting his crops ..............

Postscript 2: Today the paper tells of 3 elephants injured by landmines still waiting for veterinary assistance as they are in the LTTE (Tamil Tiger) controlled zone and the vets are too scared to travel there. No vets in the North and East (TT zone) of the country it seems .....

Monty Python does Japanese

I am thinking of writing to the Comedy Council of Australia and requesting that they send a delegation to Sri Lanka to gain material for their next year's worth of performances. This place is a hoot! The Sri Lankans on the whole are beautiful, quiet, laid-back people with a well developed sense of humour and the ability to laugh at themselves. But sometimes when cultures meet it just goes horribly wrong i.e. our experience with local staff at a Japanese restaurant.

Bear in mind what I've just said about the Sri Lankans and then add to that mix a Japanese restaurant in Colombo. So in true Colombo fashion, this restaurant (which is well renowned), is down the dodgiest, darkest alley with piles of stinking rubbish and mangy dogs everywhere. Duncan and I brave it as the alternative is to cook for ourselves (heaven forbid!) and finally reach what looks like an oasis of tranquillity. Bright illuminations, white exterior through which we can see a serene scene of water pools, coy carp, trees etc.

Reassured we enter and are greeted by a team of circa 10 waitstaff who let out a bloodcurdling cry of : "BONSOWA-RU" in unison. I am so surprised I nearly fall into the carp pond (you have to watch where you're walking as these ponds are everywhere), but compose myself as I realise that I'm not surrounded by bloodthirsty warriors about to brandish samurai swords at any moment, but a few Sri Lankan waiters who are just saying "hello". We are shown to our table, seated etc, all good stuff. Except every time a new patron crosses the threshold (approximately every 20 minutes) we go through the same process. I have to try really really hard to keep a straight face and not degenerate into giggles (I knew I should have ordered a large Saki), and we leave an hour later, nerves more or less intact. Obviously these normally very quiet, laid-back, placid waitstaff have had it absolutely drilled into them that they must greet every customer this way but it is farcical. The Japanese customers don't bat an eyelid.

Postscript: We go and investigate The Hilton (always good to see how the other half live), and surprise surprise they have a Japanese restaurant. Being the eternal glutton that I am I want to peruse their menu, so walk through the entrance and guess what happens??? You got it, "BONSOWA-RU MADAME" delivered with just as much gusto. I bow my head and make a gracious exit, but not out of good manners, but to get out of there before I burst into hysterical laughter ....

Dinner with the boss ...

Duncan's colleague from Galle, Katja, leaves today - for Somalia! She is this effervescent, charming German lass, who after doing 9 months of tsunami reconstruction wants to test herself to see if she can handle more, so has signed with the UN for a 3 month contract in war-torn Somalia. Need I say more?

To thank her for all her hard work, the UN Habitat regional boss Lalith, holds a farewell at his house, which will be Duncan and my first trip into a Sri Lankan home. We arrive with Tim, Madeleine and Katja to a non-descript alley and walk into this amazing open plan home centred around a central courtyard that is open to the sky. Lalith was an architect in a former life and it shows - his house which was built to his own design 20 years ago looks as modern as ours, built last year. Gradually a procession of Duncan's colleagues (all Sri Lankan) join us. What a jolly bunch. They have all been working for UN Habitat for 10 year's plus and prior to that all worked for the Sri Lankan Housing Authority, and boy do they have some stories! I am treated to one about how you can measure civilization by whether a town has a chinese restaurant, and then how they found one in downtown Gambia - the story takes a while to tell as it is punctuated by giggles - they are priceless (and not a day under 50).

At about 8.30 the food arrives - Sri Lankan delicacies - home delivered. We all squeeze around the table and I follow suit and eat with my hand (right only). The Sri Lankans (as you'd expect) are much more delicate than I, and no-one comments on me licking my fingers! The food is all vegetarian (heaven) and mostly hot, hot, hot. At 9pm their colleague Christina (from UNDP) arrives having just left the office. It is her job I'm interested in as she leaves at the end of February - but 9pm??? Anyway I get a chance for a good chat - let's see if it leads anywhere. After we are finished, all the drivers come in to eat and are very good natured about the fact that the food must be cold by now.

After speeches we head back to our apartment where Robyn awaits with driver in tow to take herself and Katja to the airport. Lots of flights here leave at 2/3am - those living around the airport aren't rich enough to complain about the noise, unlike Sydney. Shame to say goodbye to Robyn and Katja so soon, they are both good value.

First Days

So Duncan has his first official day of work 25/01 which constitutes a meeting with the IFRC (International Federation of Red Cross) to agree the project details that they will be working together on. He comes back very excited and impressed with the Red Cross and slightly in awe of the prospect of building 11,000 homes in such a short period.

I meanwhile am a lady of "leisure". Go to the gym, check out another bit of Colombo (gradually gaining my bearings), have a coffee, read my book for an hour and then DY's home - my how time flies! At this stage I'm struggling to conceptualize what working is like, especially given the horror stories I'm hearing about some of the work environments i.e. computers breaking down because of the humidity when the offices are unairconditioned; ladies not going to the bathroom for 8 hours because they are so grim; 4 people sharing a desk etc etc etc

Australia Day and we get a guernsey for drinks at the High Commission, a surprisingly friendly and low key affair. Kids running in and out of the pool, beers (Sri Lankan - very good too) and of course a BBQ. I meet a senior chap in the Red Cross, so send my resume the next day (fingers crossed). Joking aside, I prefer working to being a lady of "leisure"!!!

Friday night dinner at The Gallery Cafe with yet more Australians - where are they all coming from? Shane and Junko who live up the road from us have just arrived as Shane is working on a project here, and Ian who is a long term consultant to various projects in SL. A fantastic meal in a beautiful setting for $40 a head including boooooze - expensive for here. Next day we set off for shopping with Robyn which requires Herculean energy levels. There is now not a homeware shop in Colombo that I haven't visited, so those requiring gifts/ information just let me know what you want.

Sunday and Duncan and I go for an early morning stroll around Galle Face Green (euphemistic description, there's not much green left), a large open area fronting the ocean. I have renamed it "Galle smooch Green" because no matter what time of day you are there, there are canoodling couples of all ages hiding behind umbrellas (and praying that none of their relatives walk past). I'm intrigued by this especially as so many marriages in SL are still arranged, and even more surprising fall over at the final hurdle if the 'horoscope' is not auspicious. No kidding - horoscopes are make or break in the marriage game here. So, given that at least 50% of marriages are arranged and the horoscope juggle is mandatory, how does illicit smooching fit in? Any answers gratefully received!

After listening to some jazz at Barefoot, we wander back to the Galle Face Hotel, a magnificent (if in parts ramshackle) colonial building fronting the ocean with a beautiful pool and drinks area. We watch the sun go down before heading off for dinner at the Cricket Club. Eating in is hard to do when food cooked by others is so cheap, and good.